Caprese Salad (Modern)
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Credit: Chef Lance Cook
the National Culinary Review, July 2020
From the Chef
“For a modern spin on the Caprese salad, Chef Cook introduces some of the molecular gastronomy techniques he picked up throughout his career and years ago at the Culinary Institute of America as part of the “Experimental Kitchen” curriculum. For the dish, Chef Cook still starts off with housemade mozzarella (from curd), but instead of slicing it, forms it into an airy balloon, which can be filled with anything from tomato aspic to foams and garlic-infused air. He then swaps liquid caviar pearls for the balsamic vinegar to add texture and turns lemon oil into a powder for a little pop of flavor and color. For the basil, instead of a chiffonade, he adds micro basil leaves as well as a pesto-pignoli component. He also uses baby heirloom tomatoes and adds some charred onions for a little smokiness. “Although, I love the simplicity of the classic Caprese, this modern-day spin offers more eye appeal, thanks to the colorful ingredients, while still accentuating the freshness of the tomatoes,” he says.”
Ingredients
Baby heirloom tomatoes
For the balsamic caviar (pearls):
2/3 cup balsamic vinegar
1 1/2 tablespoon honey
2 grams agar agar
1 gallon canola oil (chilled to 37°F)
For the Meyer lemon dust:
3/4 cup extra-virgin olive oil
1 each Meyer lemons, zest only (no pith)
For the basil pesto:
1 cup fresh basil (stems removed)
1 tablespoon pine nuts, lightly toasted
1 each large garlic clove
1/4 cup extra-virgin olive oil
1/4 cup grated parmesan
For the mozzarella:
2 pounds mozzarella cheese curd, cut into small pieces, room temperature
1 gallon water (180°F)
1/2 cup kosher salt
Instructions
For the balsamic caviar (pearls):
Bring vinegar and honey to a simmer (180°F). Add agar and stir until incorporated. Cook at 190°F to 200°F for one minute. Remove from heat. Allow to cool for a couple minutes. Place in squeeze bottle with fine tip. Make droplets of vinegar mixture into the chilled canola oil. As the mixture hits the canola oil surface it begins to set, dropping to the bottom and becoming completely set. Continue to make droplets into the canola oil until vinegar mixture is gone. Pour canola and balsamic caviar through a strainer or chinois. Rinse caviar with cold water to remove excess oil. Use as needed. Reserve canola oil for another use.
For the baby heirloom tomatoes:
Place in fryer basket. Dip into 350°F fryer for 5 to 8 seconds. Remove from oil and allow the air to hit the tomato for about 10 seconds. Place tomatoes back into the oil until skin blisters off (about 3 seconds). Remove, peel, chill, season, plate.
For the Meyer lemon dust:
Combine all in heavy bottom sauce pot over medium heat. Bring oil to 150°F for 10 minutes. Remove from heat and let stand for 3 hours (or until room temp). Strain.
Place 1 pint maltodextrin in food processor. Stream in room temp infused oil until malto is light and fluffy. Season with kosher salt and pure ground white pepper. Reserve for plating.
For the basil pesto:
Combine basil, pine nuts and garlic in food processor and process until minced. Stream in oil while processor is running; process until smooth. Add cheese and season with kosher salt and pure ground pepper. Set aside.
For the mozzarella:
Place cut curd into bowl. In a large saucepot, bring water to 180°F degrees with the addition of the salt. Gently ladle the hot water around the curd by pouring the hot water into the side of the bowl and allowing it to pool around the curd. Add enough water to cover the curd. Let it sit for 1 minute. Work the curd with 2 wooden spoons by lifting and stretching, until smooth and elastic. Remove a piece of the stretched curd for the balloon. Stretch out piece of curd and place over syringe or ISI canister nozzle. Incorporate air to blow up the curd balloon. Twist the bottom to stop air from escaping. Trim, season and plate.
Tags
Salad, Side, The National Culinary Review
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