A Tasting in Wild Boar: Black and Tan Sirloin, Shank Confit and Southern Fried
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Credit: Dean Thomas, CEC, CCE
The National Culinary Review, December 2008
Boar Shank Confit
8 (trimmed 3 oz. with bone) fresh boar hind shanks, trimmed to remove small bone and muscle
1 oz. sea salt or kosher salt
1/2 oz. granulated sugar
2 sprigs thyme
2 cups rendered duck fat
1 lb. parsnips. peeled. large dice. shaved chips to deep-fry
Salt, to taste
1/4 cup heavy cream
2 T. whole butter
Loin, Black & Tan Sauce
8 (3 oz. portions) boar loin medallions, trimmed completely
Sea salt and black pepper, to taste
1 t. butter
1 onion, thinly sliced
1/8 t. caraway seed, crushed
1 bay leaf
2 t. brown sugar
2 t. ketchup
6 oz. Guinness Stout
6 oz. Bass Ale
6 oz. veal demi-glace
1 t malt vinegar
8 (2 oz. portions) boar tenderloin, sliced thin, pounded
Salt and pepper, to taste
1 cup all-purpose flour
1 whole egg
1 cup breadcrumbs
Fennel Watercress Slaw
1 large fennel bulb, blanched, thin slice
1 lime, zested. juiced
1 T. extra-virgin olive oil
3/4 cup upland cress and amaranth sprouts
Fennel frond oil.
salt and pepper, to taste
6 oz. fresh sweet pea tendrils
Shavings super-aged Gouda cheese
1) Separate two bones and muscles of shank, reserving small shank inside. Season; cure 24 hours. In heavy-gauge pan over low heat, lightly poach in duck fat until tender and ready to fall off bone. Reserve.
2) Cover diced parsnip in salted water. Simmer until fully cooked. Drain. Put in blender; purée with heavy cream and butter until smooth. Reserve.
3) Preheat heavy-duty sauté pan. Season loin portions with salt and pepper. Sear medallions over high heat in butter to caramelize. Do not overcook; leave for carryover cooking at just under medium. Remove from pan; reserve for service. Add onion; slowly caramelize onion, caraway seed, bay leaf, brown sugar and ketchup until dark and sweet Deglaze pan with Guinness and Bass; reduce until about 2 T. liquid remains. Add veal demi-glace; bring to a simmer. Strain; adjust seasoning with malt vinegar. Reserve.
4) Season and lightly bread boar tenderloin, standard method. Deep-fry until golden-brown.
5) For slaw, mix fennel, lime zest and juice, olive oil, cress and sprouts, fennel frond oil and salt and pepper. Let rest 1 hour in refrigerator before service.
6) For service: Fry boar shank to crisp outer skin. On warm service plate, place 2 T. fenne|/ watercress slaw at one end; shingle with boar fritter; drizzle with green fennel frond oil. In center, place 2 T. parsnip purée in small mound; shingle crispy boar shank. Place seared, rested boar medallion over 1 T. black & tan sauce. Blanch pea tendrils. Garnish with pea tendrils and shaved Gouda
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