Modern Veal Oscar

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Sizzle, Summer 2015
Ingredients
1 ½ lbs. veal cheek, trimmed
Kosher salt and fresh ground pepper, to taste
¼ cup olive oil
½ cup onion, diced
¼ cup carrot, diced
¼ cup celery, diced
1 ½ T. tomato paste
6 oz. dry red wine
6 oz. port wine
1 bay leaf
8 sprigs fresh thyme
6 large prunes, pitted (may substitute apricots, figs or cherries)
1 pint veal stock
1 T. course cracked black pepper
Olive oil poached veal tenderloin
2 (8 oz.) veal tenderloin, cleaned, trimmed
½ cup Arbequino extra virgin olive oil
¼ large shallot, thin sliced
2 sprigs fresh thyme
1 clove garlic, crushed
1 t. white peppercorns, crushed
¼ cup grapeseed oil
Kosher salt and fresh cracked white pepper, to taste
½ T. tarragon, chopped
½ T. parsley, chopped
½ T. chervil, chopped
½ T. chives, chopped
2 T. shallot, fine diced
2 oz. white wine
2 cups veal stock
1 t. unsalted butter
Crispy veal sweetbreads
8 oz. veal sweetbreads
1 qt. court-bouillon
Seasoned flour, as needed
¼ cup grapeseed oil
2 oz. unsalted butter
1 T. shallot, fine diced
1 T. lemon juice
1 lemon, supremed; reserve several pieces for garnish
1 t. parsley, chopped
Potato parsnip puree
8 oz. russet potatoes, peeled, diced
12 oz. parsnips, peeled, diced
1 cup whole milk
2 cups heavy whipping cream
Kosher salt and white pepper, to taste
2 oz. unsalted butter
Deep-fried béarnaise
4 T. shallot, fine diced
2 T. dried tarragon leaves
2 oz. tarragon vinegar
4 oz. white wine
1 t. fresh ground white pepper
4 T. fresh tarragon, chopped
Béarnaise
½ cup white wine
¼ cup white wine vinegar
1 bay leaf
2 sprigs fresh thyme
1 t. white peppercorns
2 egg yolks
8 oz. clarified butter
1 T. calcium lactate
¼ t. xanthan gum
1 T. tarragon reduction
Kosher salt, white pepper, cayenne pepper, Tabasco and lemon juice, to taste
Béarnaise spherification
Alginate bath (1 liter room-temperature water; 6 g sodium alginate)
Béarnaise sauce
Seasoned all-purpose flour
2 eggs, whisked
1 cup panko, fine ground
Oil for frying
Kosher salt, to taste
Florida stone crab claws
4 large Florida stone crab claws
2 T. unsalted butter, divided
1 T. shallot, fine diced
Kosher salt and white pepper to taste
2 oz. white wine
1 t. fresh tarragon, chopped
1 t. fresh parsley, chopped
1 t. fresh chervil, chopped
1 t. fresh chives, chopped
Asparagus
20 large green asparagus (approximately 2 bunches)
4 large chives
½ cup light chicken stock
2 oz. unsalted butter, diced small
1 T. shallot, fine diced
Kosher salt and white pepper, to taste
Instructions
1. Season veal cheek meat with salt and pepper; set aside.
2. Heat olive oil in heavy-gauge sautoir or small rondeau. Add veal cheek; sear both sides. Remove; reserve.
3. Add onion, season with salt; cook until light brown, stirring often. Add carrot and celery, season with salt; lightly caramelize, stirring often.
4. Add tomato paste; pincé; deglaze with wines. Scrape pan bottom to remove fond. Add bay leaf, thyme, prunes and cheek to pan; simmer, reducing wine by half. Add veal stock, simmer for 10 minutes. Remove from heat.
5. Cool mixture to below 70°F within two hours in ice bath. Preheat water bath to 71°C. In vacuum pouch, seal small quantities cheek with equal parts liquid and solid. Cook in water bath for 12 hours.
6. Remove cheeks from bags; strain liquid into saucepan. Reduce to sauce consistency. Add cheeks to sauce. Gently reheat for service.
For olive oil poached veal tenderloin:
1. In vacuum bags, seal tenderloins, olive oil, thin sliced shallot, thyme, garlic and peppercorns. Place in 51°C water bath for 45 minutes.
2. Heat grapeseed oil in heavybottomed saute pan over mediumhigh heat. Remove tenderloins from package, season with salt and pepper; sear both sides for 10 seconds. Remove from pan.
3. Roll tenderloins in mixture of tarragon, parsley, chervil and chives, reserve. Place fine diced shallot in pan; cook lightly. Deglaze with wine; reduce. Add veal stock; reduce by half.
4. Mount with butter; strain. Reserve for service.
For crispy veal sweetbreads:
1. In lightly salted water, soak sweetbreads overnight to remove residual blood. Drain; rinse well.
2. Poach sweetbreads in court-bouillon for 30 minutes. Place in ice bath; peel membrane. Wrap in cheesecloth; gently press overnight in refrigerator.
3. Slice ¼-inch medallions; sprinkle with seasoned flour, shaking off excess. In heavy-bottomed saute pan with grapeseed oil, sear medallions on each side until golden-brown. Remove from pan; reserve.
4. Add butter to pan; brown. Add shallot, lemon juice and segments. Return sweetbreads to pan; toss to combine. Sprinkle in parsley; reserve for service.
For potato parsnip puree:
1. Place potatoes, parsnips, whole milk, whipping cream, salt and pepper in heavy-bottomed saucepan. Simmer until parsnips are tender. Drain; reserve liquid.
2. Puree with butter in blender until smooth, adding reserved liquid as needed. Adjust seasonings; reserve for service.
For deep-fried béarnaise:
1. Simmer shallot, dried tarragon leaves, tarragon vinegar, white wine and white pepper in nonreactive saucepan to au sec. Remove from heat; cool slightly; add fresh tarragon.
For béarnaise:
1. Combine white wine, white wine vinegar, bay leaf, thyme sprigs and white peppercorns in small, nonreactive saucepan; reduce by half over medium heat. Strain mixture.
2. Place 2 T. of mixture into stainless-steel mixing bowl; mix in egg yolks. Place mixing bowl on double boiler; whisk until mixture reaches ribbon stage. Remove from stove; slowly drizzle in warm clarified butter, whisking constantly to incorporate.
3. Add calcium lactate, xanthan gum and tarragon reduction; whisk to combine. Season to taste; reserve for spherification.
For béarnaise spherification:
1. Combine water and alginate; blend well in immersion blender. Put mixture in container; place in cryovac to remove air from mixture (mixture can be made a day ahead and gently warmed to room temperature in advance).
2. Submerge 1 T. béarnaise in alginate bath; invert to release from spoon. Repeat with remaining béarnaise; allow spheres to rest in alginate bath for 10 minutes. Remove spheres from bath; rinse in fresh warm water.
3. Blot dry with paper towel. Sprinkle with seasoned flour, dip in egg wash, then panko.
4. Deep-fry at 350°F until golden-brown; Drain. Season with salt; reserve for service.
For aparagus:
1. Peel and trim asparagus to desired size; prepare ice bath.
2. In large stockpot, bring water to a boil, season with salt. Add asparagus; blanch until tender. Place in ice bath. Blanch chives for 5 seconds; place in ice bath.
3. Place chives on work surface; lay 5 pieces asparagus same direction on each chive. With each chive, tie four tight bundles; trim excess.
4. In saucepan, heat stock to rapid boil. Whisk in butter in stages to emulsify. Add shallot; season to taste; reduce heat. Place asparagus bundles in butter sauce; gently reheat for service. Drain excess butter. Serve one bundle per guest.
Plating:
1. Place large swipe of potato/parsnip puree down center of plate.
2. Center three slices each of veal cheeks and tenderloin along with sweetbreads on top of puree.
3. Directly across from tenderloin, place standing asparagus bunch.
4. Surround plate with sauce from veal cheeks.
5. On a diagonal across from asparagus, place deep-fried béarnaise sphere.
6. Lay crabmeat next to sphere and place crab claw shell on top.
Yield
4 servings
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